Le Havre, the Beautiful Concrete(法国勒阿弗尔·美丽的混凝土)
2024-06-21 National Smoothie Day
【My arm clasped your fragile waist
(Mon bras pressait ta taille frêle)】
Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
My arm clasped your fragile waist
that's supple as a reed;
Your breast beat like the wing
Of a young bird！
In a long silence we contemplated
The sky where the day was fading away.
What was happening in our souls?
Love! Love!
Like an angel who reveals herself,
You looked at me, in my night,
With your beautiful star's gaze,
Blinding me with light.
—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——
【《我伸手搂住你纤细的腰肢)》】
(法国)胜利者·雨果“哲人”(1802生—1885卒)
【红霞译】
我伸手搂住你纤细的腰肢
就像芦苇那么柔韧；
你胸脯的跳动
一如雏鸟的翅膀！
我们悄然久视
夜幕降临的天空。
沁入心灵深处？
爱情！爱情!
就像天使显灵，
你在夜晚看着我，
那美丽的星眸，
让我目眩神迷。
【注】勒阿弗尔“海港”城是印象派祖师意志坚强·莫奈“钱币”(Claude Monet)的家乡，二战结束时纳粹摧毁了其港口基础设施，而盟军为了彻底击败德军，干脆将商业区与工业区所在的市中心夷为废墟。
自2005年起海港城就被列入联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》，是一封献给现代主义的情书，比法国任何其它城市更能唤起战后涅磐重生的活力与乐观。的确，纯粹的空间感勾魂夺魄：纪念碑式极具说服力的自信，而旧城中少数幸存的遗迹也被巧妙地融入了漂亮的混凝土建筑物。虽然不计其数的单调民宅可能令人沮丧，但即使那些不同意法籍比利时建筑师伟大·佩雷“磐石”(Auguste Perret)“创新地发掘混凝土潜力”的游客照样可以在他打造的水泥城市里享受漫步的快乐。
今天是我第二次来海港城，说来奇怪，顺道最想见识的竟然莫过于巴西著名建筑师神矛?尼迈尔“管家”(Oscar Niemeyer，1907—2012)生前打造的另一部巨作。2013年我曾去过巴西首都巴西利亚“红木炭火之地”，对他那超越时空的想象力早有领教。
Today in History(历史上的今天):
2024: Rouen Cathedral, Monet's Favorite(法国鲁昂大教堂·莫奈的最爱)
2024: Rouen, City of One Hundred Bells France(法国鲁昂·百钟之城)
2019: The WNBA Controversy(浅评美国女职篮争议)
2015: A life of Religion in Meteora, Greeck(希腊曼代奥拉的宗教生活)
2014: Baltimore Natl Aquarium, MD(马里兰州巴尔的摩国家水族馆)
2012: Descriptive─Memoir(应用文─回忆录)
2010: 甜言蜜语(Sweet Nothings)
2009: 童声合唱(Children Choir)
Port Control Tower (港口控制塔)
North Dike Lighthouse by Le Havre Beach
(海港城沙滩旁的北堤灯塔)
A View from the Sea Showing the Lantern Tower of the Church of St. Joseph behind the Residence de France Apartments & the Marina
(从海上俯瞰法国公寓和码头后面的圣约瑟夫“上帝必加添圣徒”教堂灯笼塔)
Seine Pilot Station over Canal de Tancarville
(坦卡维尔“晾衣架”运河上的塞纳“拖网”河引航站)
Gonfreville-l'Orcher-Pont VIII C?té over the Tancarville Canal
(晾衣架运河上的美好和平镇—弓箭手桥第八桥一侧)
Port of Le Havre (海港城码头)
?lectricité de France Thermal Power Plant Siemens Gamesa Renewable Energy SGRE Production Site for Wind Turbines, Shipment of Rotora Blades, Turbines & Tower Segments for the 500 MW Offshore
(法国电力集团热电厂西门子歌美飒可再生能源风力涡轮机生产基地，为500兆瓦海上风电项目运送转子叶片、涡轮机和塔架部件)
Fishing Boats & Motor Yachts @ Vauban Basin
(沃邦盆地的渔船和游艇)
Port Vauban (沃邦港)
Pont des Docks or Docks Bridge (码头桥)
Auban Bassin Build in the Early 1840's
(明亮盆地·建于19世纪40年代初)
Horizon 360 Housing Commercial Retail & Offices, 82 Apts Equipped w/ Terraces or Balconies, Including Duplexes on the Top 2 Floors
(地平线360度公寓·商业零售和办公室82套公寓配备露台或阳台，包括顶楼两层的复式公寓)
Roy Basin w Small Fishing Boats @ Anchor & in the Background Bldgs Typical of the Reconstruction
(红色盆地·小渔船停泊在岸边，背景为典型的重建建筑)
World Trade Ctr (世贸中心)
Francis the Knight Footbridge, a Cable-Stayed Bridge w Fan System, Pedestrian Bridge, Steel Bridge, Steel Pylon & 2-span Asymmetric Cable Stayed Structure
(自由骑士人行桥·一座带风扇系统的斜拉桥、人行桥、钢桥、钢塔和双跨度桥非对称斜拉结构)
Alta Tower w/ Twisting Concrete
(高塔·采用扭曲的混凝土)
Downtown Rebuilt by Auguste Perret Listed as World Heritage by UNESCO, the Lantern Tower of Saint Joseph Church
(伟大·磐石重建的市中心被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产与上帝必加添圣徒教堂的灯笼塔)
Bd de Strasbourg w/ Public Library & Town Hall
(斯特拉斯堡“交叉道城”大道与公共图书馆和市政厅)
City Hall w/ American-Like Skyscrapers
(市政厅与美式摩天大楼)
City Hall w/ General View of the Southern Facade & Tower Built in 1958 by Architects Auguste Perret & Jacques Tournant in Place of the Old One Razed in WWII
(市政厅南立面和塔楼全景·由建筑师 伟大·磐石和后继者·托尔南特“转折点”于1958年修建，取代了二战中被夷为平地的旧市政厅)
Resistance Deportation Monument & the French Flags in City Ctr
(市中心《抵抗驱逐》纪念碑和法国国旗)
Gardens of the Town Hall w/ Stilt-Walkers
(市政厅花园与雕塑《高跷手》)
Wedding @ City Hall (市政厅·婚礼)
Cultural Ctr Le Volcan, a Theatre & a Multi-Purpose Hall
(火山文化中心·剧院和多功能厅 06-21-2024)
Memorial to the Victims of WWII Shellings
(《二战炮击受害者》纪念碑)
War Memorials (战争纪念碑)
St Joseph Church Envisioned as a Beacon for the City after WWII Architecture Dedicated to the Victims of the Air Raids
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·被视为二战后城市的灯塔，该建筑致力于纪念空袭受害者 06-21-2024)
The Lantern Tower of St Joseph Church from the Inside w/ Colored Glass in the Facade & Modern Lighting
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂的灯笼塔楼内部·外墙选用彩色玻璃，配有现代照明)
Stained Glass & Spire Acting as a Memorial to the 5,000 Civilians Died in the Conflict of WWII @ St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂的彩色玻璃和尖顶·纪念二战期间牺牲的五千名平民)
Impressive Work w/ Raw Concrete Surfaces @ St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·印象深刻的作品与原始混凝土表面)
Concrete Slab Shining w/ Light from the Colored Facade Glass @ St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·混凝土板在彩色立面玻璃映衬下熠熠生辉)
Pipe Organ of St Joseph Church (上帝必加添圣徒教堂·管风琴)
Spiral Staircase Leading to the Organ @ St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·通往管风琴的螺旋楼梯)
Altar & Pulpit in the Ctr of St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·中殿的祭坛和讲坛 06-21-2024)
Baptismal Font of St Joseph Church
(上帝必加添圣徒教堂·洗礼池)
Rue de Paris, Artist Vincent Ganivet, Container Chains, in the Line w/ the Hotel de Ville, Docked Oceania Marina in the Background
(巴黎街上艺术家征服·匕首的雕塑《集装箱链》·与市政厅排成一线，背景是停靠的大洋洲码头)
Panorama Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site w/ Innovative Utilization of Concrete's Potential
(被列为联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》的全景图·创新地发掘混凝土的潜力)
Sculpture of Container Catena (雕塑《集装箱链》)
Harbor Windbreak (港口防风建筑)
Saint-Roch Square Public Park, Sculpture of To Reach the Finish You Have to Start by Henk Vish
(安宁圣徒广场公园——领主·维什“生命”的雕塑《要到达终点，你就得开始》)
Saint-Roch Square Public Park, Le Havre Entered the UNESCO Pantheon for the Modernity of Its Architecture
(安宁圣徒广场公园·海港城因其建筑的现代性而被列入联合国教科文组织万神殿)
Saint-Roch Square Public Park, The Moon Landed in Le Havre” by Arthur Gosse
(安宁圣徒广场公园——坚强·戈斯“上帝”的《登陆海港城的月球》)
La Rolande by Robert Wlérick
(光辉·威纳亥格的雕塑《著名土地》)
Sculpture Up#3 by Baumann & Lang Set up for the 500-Year Celebrations of Le Havre
(鲍曼“同胞”与朗“高”为庆祝海港城500周年而创作的雕塑《溯流而上》第三幅作品 06-21-2024)
Ave Foch & Blvd Fran?ois I, A Series of Poles of Varying Sizes w/ Chairs Salvaged from Various Districts
(福煦“火炬”大道与自由人大道·从不同地区回收的一系列尺寸各异的柱子和椅子)
Sculpture of The Signal by Henri-Georges Adam
(领主·农夫·亚当“大地”的雕塑《信号》)
Sculpture of the Birds Perched on Columns Themselves Placed on a Slab
(栖息在石板上的柱子上的雕塑《鸟儿》)
Statue East to the English Channel, Until the End of the World
(英吉利海峡以东的雕像《直到世界尽头》)
Sculpture of Hand on Le Volcan Formed after the Architect's Hand by Oscar Niemeyer
(模仿巴西建筑师“神矛·管家”右手的雕塑《火山之手》)
Oscar Niemeyer Library (“神矛·管家”图书馆)
Fa?ade of Halles Centrales (中央菜市场·正立面)
Les Halles, the Central Fresh Food Market
(中央菜市场·中央新鲜食品市场)
Les Halles, the Fruit Stand & Vegetable Stall
(中央菜市场·果蔬摊位)
Monet Staircase & Le Nice Havrais, a Sheltered Belgian Government from 1914 to 1918
(莫奈楼梯和海港城的尼斯“胜利”大厦·1914—1918年比利时庇护政府所在地)
Ch?teau des Montalets Built from the 11th and 12th Centuries
(建于11—12世纪的小山翼城堡)
Cape of La Hève Invaded by Myriads of Sails of All Colors @ the Bay & Providing a Very Pleasant Spectacle
(抬起角海湾·停泊着无数色彩斑斓的帆船，景色十分壮观)
Monet's Impression, Sunrise 1872, Depicting the port of Le Havre, One of the Most Famous Paintings
(莫奈“钱币”于1872年创作的最著名的画作之一——《日出·印象》描绘海港城码头)
Dinner (晚餐)
Crosslinks(相关博文):
2016: Le Havre, the Rebuilt City FRA(法国勒阿弗尔“避风港”·重建之城)