Rouen, City of One Hundred Bells France(法国鲁昂·百钟之城)
2024-06-21 World Music Day

【The Genesis Of The Butterfly (Vere novo)】
Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
The dawn is smiling on the dew that covers
The tearful roses; lo, the little lovers
That kiss the buds, and all the flutterings
In jasmine bloom, and periwinkle, of white wings,
That go and come, and fly, and peep and hide,
With muffled music, murmured far and wide.
Ah, the Spring time, when we think of all the lays
That dreamy lovers send to dreamy mays,
Of the fond hearts within a billet bound,
Of all the soft silk paper that pens wound,
The messages of love that mortals write
Filled with the intoxication of delight,
Written in April and before the May time
Shredded and flown, playthings for the wind's playtime,
We dream that all white butterflies above,
Who seek through clouds or waters souls to love,
And leave their lady mistress in despair,
To flit to flowers, as kinder and more fair,
Are but torn love letters, that through the skies
Flutter, and float, and change to butterflies.
—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——
【《蝴蝶的起源(初春时节)》】
(法国)维克多·雨果“胜利者·哲人”(1802生—1885卒)
【红霞译】
黎明在露珠上对着
含泪的玫瑰微笑;瞧,亲吻花儿的
小情人,翩然而至
茉莉丛中长春花里的白色翅膀,
起舞旋绕,飞离又飞回,
伴随低沉的音乐,四处轻吟。
春天啊,当我们怀想所有的思念
从梦幻的爱侣到沉思的美人,
到俘获的芳心,到这堆
毡尖笔写的各式柔丝纸传书,
到我们四月收到并撕毁的
陶醉而狂热的情书,
我们以为能眼见它们随风飞去,
透过草地、树林、水面、天空,
到处悠荡,寻找灵魂,
飞向一如离开女人的花朵,
白色小碎片,在旋风中追逐
所有甜美的音符,化作蝴蝶。
【注】鲁昂“红房子”像一只被时间淬炼过的容器,以石头和文字为引线,邀请人穿行其中。10世纪,维京人变成诺曼“北欧”人,鲁昂成为诺曼底的省会;百年战争期间被英国统治30年,圣女贞德“来自圣弧的神慈”(Jeanne d'Arc)在此受审、被火焰吞没;普法战争时被普鲁士“水乡”占领,一战成为英军补给基地,二战又被德军据守,盟军的轰炸摧毁了四分之一的古建。历史像潮水,反复漫过这座城,又退去,留下层层叠叠的印记。
但鲁昂的骨骼,不止于战争。高乃依的《熙德》(Le Cid or Lord 1636)、福楼拜的《包法利夫人》(Le Cid or Lord 1636)、莫泊桑的《羊脂球》(Boule de Suif or The Dumpling 1880)、马洛的《苦儿流浪记》(Sans Famille or Nobody's Boy 1878)——这些声音都从这座城的街巷里发出。半木结构的房屋倾斜着,像一排被时间压弯的背脊;哥特式尖塔指向天空,仿佛要把信仰钉入云层。莫奈画过这里的大教堂,古老的天文钟仍在镀金的拱廊间量度着流逝的光阴。旧集市广场上,有一块标记——那里曾是贞德火焰升起的地方。
我站在那块石板前,阳光斜斜地落下来,在石面上画出一道温和的光痕。鸽子从广场另一头起飞,翅膀在光里闪了一下,又落回原地,像在替我完成一个从未说出口的句子。风从教堂的方向吹来,带着旧时石头的微凉。那一刻,我忽然觉得,鲁昂并没有被摧毁——它只是学会了如何在废墟中,继续活成一封写往远方的信。信很长,抬头写着战争与文学,地址落在一座仍在呼吸的钟楼里。而我正好站在信的开头,还没有读完,却已经隐约知道了它的去向。它不寄往某个具体的地点,而是寄给每一个愿意站在旧石板上、让阳光与风同时穿过身体的人。那些尚未被写下的段落,将等待着下一双在石墙与光线之间停下的目光,来续写它们。
Today in History(历史上的今天):
2024: Le Havre, the Beautiful Concrete(法国勒阿弗尔·美丽的混凝土)
2024: Rouen Cathedral, Monet's Favorite(法国鲁昂大教堂·莫奈的最爱)
2019: The WNBA Controversy(浅评美国女职篮争议)
2015: A life of Religion in Meteora, Greeck(希腊曼代奥拉的宗教生活)
2014: Baltimore Natl Aquarium, MD(马里兰州巴尔的摩国家水族馆)
2012: Descriptive─Memoir(应用文─回忆录)
2010: 甜言蜜语(Sweet Nothings)
2009: 童声合唱(Children Choir)
Pont Pierre-Corneille over the Seine Completed in 1952
(塞纳“拖网”河上1952年竣工的皮埃尔·高乃依“磐石·号角”桥)
Rouen Opera House Completed in 1962
(鲁昂歌剧院·1962年建成)

Chapel Pride St. Romain in Renaissance (1543) in Front of the Hall of the Canvas
(位于名人堂前文艺复兴时期的荣耀圣罗曼“罗马”礼拜堂·建于1543年)
Chapel Pride St. Romain against Market Hall Aux Toiles, Long Considered the Largest Market in France
(荣耀圣罗曼礼拜堂与名人堂市场大厅相邻·长期以来被认为是法国最大的市场)
Rue Général Leclerc Named in Homage to Philippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque, Liberator of Paris
(勒克莱尔·奥特克洛克“文员”将军街——以巴黎解放者菲利普“爱马仕”·勒克莱尔·德·豪特克洛克“高钟”命名)
Fa?ade of the Bureau of Finance (1509) Remaining a Late Manifesto of the Louis XII Style
(建于1509年的财政部大楼正立面·仍保留着路易“名将”十二风格的晚期遗风)

Rue Saint Romain Named after Saint Romain, Archbishop of Rouen in the 7th Century
(圣罗曼街·以七世纪鲁昂大主教命名)

Rue Saint Romain w/ Medieval Historic Half-Timbered Bldg
(圣罗曼街上中世纪半木结构建筑 06-21-2024)

Rue Saint-Romain Between 1460 and 1466, Guillaume d'Estouteville Restored the Archiepiscopal Palace on Plans of His Choice, Adding This Hotel Bldg
(圣罗曼街·1460—1466年间,住在罗马的大主教纪尧姆·德斯图特维尔“坚定保护者·勇敢城镇”按照自己选择的方案修复了大主教宫,并增建了这座大楼)

Historial Jeanne d’Arc, the Natl Heroine of France Housed @ the Archdiocese of Rouen & Dedicated to Joan of Arc @ 2 Rue Saint Romain
(圣罗曼街2号·历史上法国民族英雄圣女贞德博物馆,现藏于鲁昂大主教区,献给圣女贞德 06-21-2024)
Archdiocese Palace in Gothic & Renaissance Built in the Middle Ages @ 7 Rue Saint Romain
(圣罗曼街7号·中世纪建造的哥特式和文艺复兴式大主教管区宫殿)

H?tel De La Cathédrale @ 12 Rue Saint Romain
(圣罗曼街12号·大教堂大厦 06-21-2024)

Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints @ 38 Rue Saint Romain
(圣罗曼街38号·耶稣基督后期圣徒教会)
H?tel de la Houssaye @ 22 Rue de la Cha?ne
(链条街22号·冬青树大厦)

Rue des Chanoines w/ Timber-Framed Bldgs by the Narrow Pathway
(教士街与狭窄小路旁的木结构建筑)

Passage from the Middle Ages @ Rue des Chanoines
(教士街中世纪的通道)

Rue des Chanoines, an Old Cozy Street w/ Timber Framing Houses
(教士街·一条拥有木结构房屋的古老而惬意的街道)
Half-Timbered House @ 50 Rue Saint-Nicolas
(圣尼古拉斯“人民的胜利”街50号·半木结构房屋)
Half-Timbering Bldg w/ Corbels (带托臂的半木结构建筑)

Medieval Historic Half-Timbered Bldg (中世纪半木结构建筑)

Medieval Architecture (中世纪建筑 06-21-2024)
Rue du Gros Horloge, the Main Street in the Normandy Town
(大钟街·诺曼底镇的主要街道)

Traditional Wood Beamed Normandy Town Houses @ 23 Rue du Gros-Horloge
(大钟街23号·诺曼底传统木梁联排别墅)

Primatial Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Rouen in Gothic Completed in 1880
(鲁昂圣母大教堂·哥特式,1880年竣工)

Historical Capital City of Normandy & the seat of the Exchequer of Normandy in the Middle Ages
(诺曼底省历史名都和中世纪诺曼底财政部所在地)
Rue du Gros-Horloge (大钟街)

Gros-Horloge in a Renaissance Arch Crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge
(横跨大钟街的文艺复兴大钟拱门 06-21-2024)

Sculpture Representing Rouen's Coat of Arms beneath Gros-Horloge
(大钟楼下展现鲁昂市徽的雕塑)
Louis XV Fountain to Celebrate the Loves of the River God, Alpheus, & the Nymph Arethusa
(路易十五喷泉·庆祝阿尔菲斯“穿越”河神与阿瑞图萨“泉水”仙女的爱情)
Astronomic Clock & Fountain at Rue du Gros-Horloge (1389)
(大钟楼街·建于1389年的天王钟与喷泉)

Rue Massacre (屠杀街)
Place du Lieutenant Aubert, a City of Gingerbread Houses & Gothic Towers
(奥伯特“高贵”中尉广场·姜饼屋和哥特式塔楼城)
Church of Saint Joan of Arc w/ the Complex Asymmetric Roof Symbolizing the Fiery Flame Engulfed the Brave Virgin
(圣女贞德教堂·复杂的不对称屋顶象征着炽热的火焰吞噬了勇敢的圣母)
Church of Saint Joan of Arc w/ an Inverted Funeral Ship Served as the Transport of the Final Journeys in the Middle Ages
(圣女贞德教堂·倒置的葬礼船作为中世纪最后旅程的运输方式)
Stained Glasses of St Joan of Arc Church
(圣女贞德教堂·彩窗)
Le B?cher de Jeanne d'Arc Adjacent to the Church of St. Joan of Arc @ Place du Vieux-Marché, the Exact Place where Joan of Arc was burned @ the stake in 1431
(圣女贞德书店·毗邻旧集市广场上圣女贞德教堂,正是1431年圣女贞德被火刑处死的地方 06-21-2024)
Place du Vieux-Marché or Old Market Square
(旧集市广场)
Wemedia @ Old Market Square (旧集市广场·自媒体)
Poissonnerie des Halles or Fish Market (鱼市)
Poissonnerie des Halles, Seafood Marketplace
(海鲜市场)
La Couronne, France's Oldest Inn Built in 1345
(建于1345年的皇冠餐厅·法国最古老的客栈 06-21-2024)
Courthouse in the Louis XII Style Completed in 1507
(路易十二风格的法院·1507年竣工)
72 Rue Jeanne d'Arc (圣女贞德街72号)
89 Rue Jeanne d’Arc (圣女贞德街89号)
106 Rue Jeanne-d'Arc (圣女贞德街106号)

Donjon de Rouen, the Only Remaining of the Early 13th-Century Castle where Joan of Arc was imprisoned
(鲁昂城堡·13世纪早期唯一的城堡并用来囚禁圣女贞德)
Rouen Museum of Fine Arts, Meeting of Metropolitan Museums (RMM)
(鲁昂美术馆·大都会博物馆会议中心)

You love your mother almost unknowingly, and you don't realize the depth of the roots of that love until the last separation.
(莫泊桑纪念碑·你几乎不知不觉地爱着你的母亲,直到最后一次分离,你才意识到这份爱的根基有多深)

Clock of the Rouen (鲁昂钟)
Rouen-Rive-Droite, a Large Railway Station Opened in 1847
(鲁昂右岸大型火车站·1847年启用)

Archive Tower, an Archival Repository Completed in 1965
(档案塔·1965年建成的档案库)
The Confectioners (糖果厂)
Crosslinks(相关博文):
