Mont St-Michel, Wonder of the West(法国圣米歇尔山·西方奇迹)
2024-06-20 National Ice Cream Soda Day
【I love a little child, and I'm an old fool
(J'aime un petit enfant, et je suis un vieux fou)】
Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
Grandfather?
What?
I want to go away.
To go where?
Wherever I want.
Let us leave.
I want to remain, Grandfather.
Let us remain.
Grandfather?
What?
Will it rain?
I hope not.
I want it to rain.
Why?
To help my bean grow in my garden.
It is God that makes the rain.
OK! Well, I want God to do it.
But what if he does not want to?
I want it. If I want to do something God cannot prevent me.
That is right but perhaps he will be annoyed,
But let's forget about him.
And make it rain?
Certainly.
Come, take the gardener's watering-can, and we will make rain.
Where?
On your bean.
—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——
【《我爱小孩子，而我却是老傻瓜》】
(法国)维克多·雨果“胜利者·哲人”(1802生—1885卒)
【红霞译】
爷爷？
啥情况？
我想走。
什么地方？
到我想去的地方。
我们开路吧。
爷爷，我想留下来。
我们一起留下来吧。
爷爷？
什么事？
天会下雨吗？
我希望别介。
我想要下雨。
咋回事？
我菜园的豆子会长大。
上帝造雨。
好吧！只好让上帝这么做。
但如果祂不肯呢？
我要做。如果我想弄坏玩具，上帝无法阻止我。
所以……
没错儿。祂也许会生气，
但我们还是忘记祂吧。
为了下雨？
确实如此。
好吧，我们从园丁雅克“后继者”手中接过喷壶，
叫雨下起来。
在哪里？
你的豆子上。
【注】圣米歇尔“神似”山屹立在诺曼底“北欧之地”与不列颠之间的巨大沙洲上，像一艘被时间搁浅的石船。潮汐每天两次从四周退去又涌来，14米/46英尺的落差让这座孤岛在“海中城堡”与“陆地圣山”之间来回切换——退潮时，朝圣者踩着湿漉漉的沙洲走来，脚步在灰褐色的滩涂上留下浅浅的印记，像历史在纸上轻轻按了一下；涨潮时，海水从四面八方围拢过来，把整座山变成一座浮在水上的石雕，只有尖顶上的天使像还在高处，望着远方。
修道院建于11世纪，花了500年才建成。哥特式的尖顶刺破天空，被称作“反重力的西方奇迹”不是没有道理——那些飞扶壁和细柱把石头的重量化解成向上的线条，仿佛整座建筑随时会腾空而起，带着天使长米迦勒的翅膀飞升而去。脚下的花岗岩粗粝而坚实，踩上去能感觉到石头的凉意从鞋底渗上来，带着几百年海风冲刷后留下的微细孔洞。修道院内部却又是另一番光景：回廊轻巧，拱柱排列成行，光线穿过窗洞在石板上画出一道道明亮的长条，像被时间削薄了的尺度，把砖石与信仰一起捏成细密的纹理。
我沿着螺旋石阶向上走，墙壁越来越窄，空气里开始出现海潮和蜡烛混合的微弱气味。走到露天平台时，风迎面扑来，海湾在脚下铺展成一片灰蓝与沙黄交织的广袤平面，远处的潮水正一寸一寸地爬回来，把滩涂上的脚印慢慢抹去。我靠在石墙上，手里攥着那张没能退掉的迪南“堡垒”城(Dinan)票，心里却没有半点惋惜。不是因为它不重要，而是因为此刻我站在这里，站在那座曾让英国军队望而却步、被改建成监狱、被纳粹占领又成为旅游景点的石头上——它经历了太多，却没被任何一段历史完全占有。它只是站在潮水中，让一切经过它的人事物像潮水一样，从它身边退去。
风从海湾吹来，裹着咸味和沙粒，打在脸上细细的。我忽然想，那些中世纪徒步穿越沙洲的朝圣者，踩过同样的风，抬过同样的头。他们或许也像我一样，在某一刻忽然感到庆幸——不是庆幸抵达，而是庆幸自己曾在某个巨大的、不动的东西面前站过一会儿，被它的静默整理过。而不远处的海湾，正把最后一片滩涂收进水里，整个圣米歇尔山重新变成一座海岛。我转身走下台阶，脚步落在石头上的声音轻轻弹回来，像是对那阵沉默的回音。那些海水还在涨，仿佛要把世界淹没，又仿佛只是为了让岛屿显出它真正的形状。而我站在台阶尽头，觉得那阵风也跟着我往下走了一段，然后停下来，留在了修道院门口的石缝里。它该替我等下一次涨潮，而我带着那天的日光与海盐，慢慢走回岸边。
1979年，圣米歇尔山及其海湾被列入联合国教科文组织《世界遗产名录》。
补充说明：
游轮通常只允许至少提前两天退票，否则经济损失自负。我昨天因为无法确定今天能否拿到明天前往圣米歇尔山的通行证，所以没敢抛出手头早已买好去迪南的游览票，无奈错过了全额退款($134.25/3.5小时)的最后期限。
有人也许疑惑为何雇用游轮岸上旅游而不选择当地旅游公司，毕竟后者比前者节省不少游费，况且像猫途鹰旅游指导(Tripadvisor)旗下的远行者(Viator)旅游公司地陪业务遍及西欧各地。在我看来，出国旅行要省心安逸，而门对门的服务可以保障轻松出宫按时回府，游轮提供的导游无论从服务质量还是语言水准大都算作上乘选择，由他们带队至少能优先登堂入室，立马消除热门景区排队的焦躁，现场直击常被忽略的建筑细节。如果不是随身地陪，普通导游价格确实便宜，但仅限于把游客送达目的地门口，剩下的内部观光全靠个人造化，只有事先做足功课或者背景知识殷实的游客才会见证物超所值，否则充其量到此一游。要知道从圣米歇尔山底爬到山顶海拔88米/289英尺、350级台阶绝对有捷径可循，如果现场有高人指点，避开客流高峰不说，关键还能了解景观背后的故事，对于绝无仅有的人生经历至关重要。
Today in History(历史上的今天):
2024：Saint-Malo, the Corsair City in France(法国圣马洛·海盗城)
2024: Dinard, Cannes of the North in France(法国迪纳尔·北方的戛纳)
2015: Mythology in Athens, Greece(希腊雅典·神话故事)
2015: Cape Sounion, Temple of Poseidon GR(希腊苏尼翁岬·海神庙)
2014: Boardwalk in Ocean City, Maryland(心爱州大洋城海滨浮桥栈道)
2013: 四年级夏令营(Fourth Grade Summer Camp)
2012: Descriptive─Poster(应用文—壁报)
2010: 阳光精神(Be Positive)
Mont Saint Michel, a Symbol of French Identity & Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979
(圣米歇尔山·法国身份的象征，于1979年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产 06-20-2024)
Benedictine Abbey, Masterpiece of Gothic Architecture w/ Soaring Vaulted Ceilings, Intricate Stonework, & Stunning Stained-Glass Windows
(本笃会修道院·哥特式建筑的杰作，拥有高耸的拱形天花板、精致的石雕和令人惊叹的彩色玻璃窗)
Archangel Michael Appeared in 3 Dreams of St. Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, Instructing Him to Build a Chapel on a Mountain
(天使长米迦勒“神似”三次出现在阿夫朗什“皇家城”主教圣奥贝尔“高明”的梦中，指示他在山上建造一座教堂)
After the 3rd dream, the bishop listened. He built a small church on the island and consecrated it in 709
(第三次梦境过后，主教听从了，在岛上修建了一座小教堂，并于公元709年举行了祝圣仪式)
During the 14th Century, the abbey was protected behind a set of military constructions during the Hundred Years' War and held out against a 30-year siege.
(14世纪百年战争期间，修道院受到一系列军事建筑的保护，经受住了长达30年的围攻)
Spire w/ a Statue of Archangel Michael Crowning the Church & Soaring to a Height of 157-m/516-ft in 1879
(教堂尖顶上圣米歇尔神赐使徒的雕像·1879年建成，高达157米/516英尺)
Stone Houses of the Medieval Village
(中世纪村庄的石屋)
Perches Aplenty to Think Clearly or at Least to Get Lost in Thought
(有很多地方得以冷静思考或者至少陷入沉思)
Ramparts & Bldgs (城墙与房舍)
Drawbridge Served as the Imposing Gateway
(吊桥·雄伟的门户 06-20-2024)
Post Office (邮局)
Grande-Rue or the Main Thoroughfare, Winding Its Way towards the Abbey, Flanked by Charming Medieval Houses
(主街·蜿蜒通向修道院，两侧是迷人的中世纪建筑)
Boutique Les Lutins or Elves Shop (精灵商店)
Maison del'Artichautt or House of the Artichoke
(朝鲜蓟之家 06-20-2024)
Mont St Michel Single Street (圣米歇尔山单行道街)
Mont St Michel Single Street (圣米歇尔山单行道街)
Mont St Michel Single Street (圣米歇尔山单行道街)
Mont St Michel Single Street (圣米歇尔山单行道街)
Fa?ade of Saint Peter Parish Church
(磐石圣徒教区教堂·正立面)
Main Nave & Altar of Saint Peter Parish Church
(磐石圣徒教区教堂·中殿及祭坛)
H?tel Les Terrasses Poulard against the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel
(母鸡露天酒店·面向圣米歇尔山湾)
Divine Islet Home to Mont Saint-Michel
(圣米歇尔山所在地神圣的小岛)
Hearing God's Voice Easier When Set Apart from the Sometimes Mind-Numbing Crush of Humanity
(远离令人麻木的人性压迫，更容易听到上帝的声音)
Bell Tower of St Pete, Dedicated to the Patron Saint of Fishermen Dating from the 15th & 16th Centuries
(圣彼得“磐石”钟楼·纪念15—16世纪的渔民守护神)
Entrance Gatehouse of the Merveille (梅尔维尔“奇迹”入口门楼)
Brownstone Cylindrical Corner Lookout Tower Partly Covered in Yellow Moss against Blue Sky
(棕色圆柱形角瞭望塔·部分覆盖着黄色苔藓，映衬着蓝天)
Fortress Wall Dating back to 708 AD When Bishop St. Aubert of Avranches Selected the Deserted Island as the Site for an Oratory Dedicated to the Archangel Michael
(堡垒墙·可追溯到公元708年，当时皇家城的主教圣奥贝尔选择了这片荒岛作为献给天使长神赐圣徒的演讲场所)
Jigsaw Puzzle of Door Architecture
(大门的建筑拼图)
Entrance Architecture (入口建筑)
Citerne Viewed from Terrasse Saut-Gauthier
(从索—戈蒂埃“圣—军队领袖”露台观看蓄水池)
Stone Pathway (石路)
Guards Room, Inner Grand Degré Dating back to 1540
(警卫室·内景奇观的历史可追溯至1540年)
Door (大门)
Door (大门)
Door (大门)
Door (大门)
Door (大门)
A Secret Corridor (秘道)
Western Fa?ade of the Abbey Church, Entrance Door to the Abbey Labyrinth
(修道院教堂西立面·通往修道院迷宫入口的大门)
Chancel in Gothic Flamboyant Style between 1446 & 1521 & the Simplicity of the Romanesque Nave Complemented by This Elegant Adaptation
(1446—1521年间哥特式华丽风格的圣坛与罗马式简约风格的中殿相得益彰)
Pipe Organ (管风琴)
Choir Vertically w/ Less Thick Pillars & Narrower Spans, Giving the Impression of an Element Soaring up to the Sky
(唱诗席·垂直排列的柱子厚度较小而跨度较窄，给人一种飞向天空的印象)
Each Span Composed of 3 Floors, Arcades, Triforium or Stands, & High Windows
(每拱均由3层楼组成·拱廊、三拱廊/看台和高窗)
Vault of the Nave w/ a Frame of Pillars & Archways
(中殿穹顶·由石柱和拱道组成的构架)
Spiritual Presence w/ the Cross as the Heart of Mont Saint-Michel
(圣米歇尔山的心脏·十字架上的精神存在)
Polychromed Madonna Carved in the 13th Century from Limestone
(13世纪石灰岩彩绘圣母像)
South Choir (唱诗席·南侧)
Tranquil Cloister Embodying the Link between the People & God
(静谧的回廊体现着人与神的联系)
View of the Cloister w/ Verdant Gardens Added to the Enchantment of Abbey's Architectural Masterpiece
(修道院的景观·翠绿的花园为修道院增添了建筑杰作的魅力)
A Gallery of the Cloister (修道院画廊)
Chapel of Our Lady of the Underworld (冥界圣母教堂)
Salled'Accueill, the Welcoming or Reception Room for Pilgrims w a Vault in a Large Central Frame Reminiscent of the Nave
(朝圣者的欢迎室或接待室·中央有一个巨大的拱顶，让人联想到教堂的中殿)
Refectory w/ Bright but No Visible Windows
(食堂·明亮但没有可见的窗户)
Fresco of Saint Aubert, Bishop of Avranches in the 8th Century, saw in dreams Archangel Michael, who ordered him to build a sanctuary on Mount Tomb
(公元8世纪，皇家城的主教圣奥贝尔在梦中见到了大天使神赐圣徒，后者命令他在墓山上建造圣殿)
Narrow Medieval Windows (狭窄的中世纪窗户)
Medieval Floor Tiles Set into the Floor of the Crypt
(中世纪镶嵌在地下室的地板上瓷砖)
St Martin Chapel, a Very Austere Style Crypt
(圣马丁“战神”礼拜堂·风格非常简朴的地下室)
Saint-Etienne Chapel, Cross Alpha Omega w/ Revelation 1-11 in the King James Version I am Alpha and Omega, the First and the Last
(圣艾蒂安“皇冠”礼拜堂·詹姆斯“替代者”王钦定的《新约启示录》版本中“自始至终十字架”：意指“我是万物的归宿”)
Saint-Etienne Chapel, the Chapel of the Dead
(圣艾蒂安礼拜堂·亡灵小教堂)
Salle des Chevaliers, the the Grandiose Knights' Hall
(骑士城堡·宏伟的骑士大厅 06-20-2024)
Salles des H?tes or Hosts' Room w/ 2 Naves for Tables & 2 Big Fireplaces for Cooked Food & Latrines on the Northern Wall
(客房·设有2个可摆放桌子的中厅，2个用于烹制食物的大壁炉，北墙设有厕所)
Almonry w/ Its Romanesque Vault (带有罗马式拱顶的圣器库)
Artwork w/ 5 New Layers of Color Representing the 5 Continents on the Globe & Associated to Each of the Figure Ambassadors for the Values of Freedom
(采用5种新颜色的艺术品·象征地球上的5大洲，并与代表自由价值观的每个人物形象相关)
Hermits were inspired to establish their community after an apparition of the Archangel Michael appeared to them.
(天使长米迦勒的幽灵出现在隐士居所前后，他们受到启发，建立了自己的社区)
Merveille, the Gothic Part of the Abbey Built in the 13th Century w/ the Clergy atop, the Nobility in the Middle, & the People @ the Bottom
(修道院的哥特式梅尔维尔·建于13世纪，顶部为神职人员，中间为贵族，底部为民众)
Merveille, the Monk Living Are,a Contributing to Reinforcement of the Defensive Character of the Mount, Protecting the Northern Flank of the Abbey
(修道院的哥特式梅尔维尔·建于13世纪，顶部为神职人员，中间为贵族，底部为民众)
Tidy Refuge Monks Tucked into (僧侣们躲进圣洁的避难所)
A Sentinel Post on Medieval City Fortifications
(中世纪古城防御工事的哨兵驿站)
Ferris Wheel Walked by 5-6 Prisoners, Laboring to Power the Immense Mechanisms to Lift Food & Supplies into the Abbey Bldgs
(5—6名囚犯操控的摩天轮·努力推动巨大的机械装置，将食物和补给运送到修道院建筑中)
Grande Roue or Treadwheel Crane Standing as a Reminder of the Tumultuous Period of the French Revolution
(踏轮起重机·令人想起法国大革命的动荡时期)
Outdoor Medieval Water Tap w/ Fleur-de-Lis, French Lily & Shell of Saint James, Coats of Arms in Inner Court of Saint Michael's Abbey
(圣米歇尔修道院内院的室外中世纪水龙头·配有鸢尾花、法国百合和圣雅各“后继者”贝壳纹章)
A View of Tombelaine or Light Tomb Island from Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey
(从圣米歇尔山修道院俯瞰光明墓岛)
River Cousenon Flowing into the Sea on the Northern Side of the Island, Demarcating the Boundary Between the Duchies of Brittany & Normandy
(流入岛屿北侧大海的亲戚河·划定了英国佬公国与北方人公国的边界)
Causeway Bridge (铜锣桥)
Divine Appointment of All on Tide-Washed Land
(潮汐地上所有人的神圣约定)
Vast Sandbanks Surrounding the Island Notorious for Its Hazardous Waters & Shifting Sandy Banks
(岛屿周围巨大的沙洲·因其危险的水域和移动的沙洲而臭名昭著)
Bay of Mont Saint-Michel Renowned for Its Distinctive Hues & expansive Vistas w/ Treacherous Quicksand, Especially @ High Tide
(圣米歇尔湾·以其独特的色调和广阔的视野而闻名，尤其是高潮时的危险流沙)
Suffolk Sheep w/ a Polled, Black-Faced Breed Raised Primarily for Its Meat, in Tidal Marsh
(萨福克“南方”羊·无角黑脸羊品种，主要在潮汐沼泽中饲养以供肉食)
European Jackdaw (欧洲寒鸦)
Omelettes Cooking on a Wood Fire at La Mère Poulard
(普拉尔“小鸡”妈妈餐厅·用柴火烹制煎蛋饼)
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