Cadiz, the Oldest City in Spain(西班牙最古老的城市·加的斯)

2024-06-05 Global Running Day

【Sleepwalking Romance (Romance Sonámbulo)】

Frederico García Lorca (1898-1936)

            Green, how I want you green.

            Green wind. Green branches.

            The ship out on the sea

            and the horse on the mountain.

            With the shade around her waist

            She dreams on her balcony,

            green flesh, her hair green,

            with eyes of cold silver.

            Green, how I want you green.

            Under the gypsy moon,

            all things are watching her

            and she cannot see them.

            Green, how I want you green.

            Big hoarfrost stars

            come with the fish of shadow

            that opens the road of dawn.

            The fig tree rubs its wind

            with the sandpaper of its branches,

            and the forest, cunning cat,

            bristles its brittle fibers.

            But who will come? And from where?

            She is still on her balcony

            green flesh, her hair green,

            dreaming in the bitter sea.

            —My friend, I want to trade

            my horse for her house,

            my saddle for her mirror,

            my knife for her blanket.

            My friend, I come bleeding

            from the gates of Cabra.

            —If it were possible, my boy,

            I'd help you fix that trade.

            But now I am not I,

            nor is my house now my house.

            —My friend, I want to die

            decently in my bed.

            Of iron, if that's possible,

            with blankets of fine chambray.

            Don't you see the wound I have

            from my chest up to my throat?

            —Your white shirt has grown

            thirsty dark brown roses.

            Your blood oozes and flees a

            round the corners of your sash.

            But now I am not I,

            nor is my house now my house.

            —Let me climb up, at least,

            up to the high balconies;

            Let me climb up! Let me,

            up to the green balconies.

            Railings of the moon

            through which the water rumbles.

            Now the two friends climb up,

            up to the high balconies.

            Leaving a trail of blood.

            Leaving a trail of teardrops.

            Tin bell vines

            were trembling on the roofs.

            A thousand crystal tambourines

            struck at the dawn light.

            Green, how I want you green,

            green wind, green branches.

            The two friends climbed up.

            The stiff wind left

            in their mouths, a strange taste

            of bile, of mint, and of basil

            My friend, where is she—tell me—

            where is your bitter girl?

            How many times she waited for you!

            How many times would she wait for you,

            cool face, black hair,

            on this green balcony!

            Over the mouth of the cistern

            the gypsy girl was swinging,

            green flesh, her hair green,

            with eyes of cold silver.

            An icicle of moon

            holds her up above the water.

            The night became intimate

            like a little plaza.

            Drunken "Guardias Civiles"

            were pounding on the door.

            Green, how I want you green.

            Green wind. Green branches.

            The ship out on the sea.

            And the horse on the mountain.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《梦游人谣》】

(西班牙)费德里科·加西亚·洛尔卡“和平统帅·矛·光明之神”

(1898生—1936卒)

【戴望舒/北岛译】

            绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色。

            绿的风，绿的树枝。

            船在海上，

            马在山中。

            影子缠在腰间，

            她在阳台上做梦。

            绿的肌肤，绿的头发，

            还有银子般清凉的眼睛。

            绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色。

            在吉普赛人的月亮下，

            一切都望着她，

            而她却看不见它们。

            绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色，

            霜花的繁星

            和那打开黎明之路的

            黑暗的鱼一起到来。

            无花果用砂纸似的树枝

            磨擦着风，

            山，未驯服的猫

            耸起激怒的龙舌兰。

            可是谁将到来？从哪儿？

            她徘徊在阳台上，

            绿的肌肤，绿的头发，

            梦见苦涩的大海。

            ——朋友，我想

            用我的马换你的房子，

            用我的马鞍换你的镜子，

            把我的短刀换你的毛毯。

            朋友，我从卡伯拉关口流血回来。

            ——要是我办得到，年轻人，

            这交易一准成功。

            可是我已不再是我。

            我的房子也不再是我的。

            ——朋友，我要善终在

            我自己的铁床上，

            如果可能，

            还得有细亚麻被单。

            你没有看见我

            从胸口到喉咙的伤口？

            ——你的白衬衫上

            染了三百朵褐色玫瑰，

            你的血还在腥臭地

            沿着你腰带渗出。

            但我已不再是我，

            我的房子也不再是我的。

            ——至少让我爬上

            这高高的阳台；

            让我上来，让我

            爬上那绿色阳台。

            月亮的阳台，

            那儿水在回响。

            于是这两个伙伴

            走向那高高的阳台。

            留下一缕血迹。

            留下一缕泪痕。

            许多铁皮小灯笼

            在屋顶上闪烁。

            千百个水晶的手鼓，

            在伤害黎明。

            绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色，

            绿的风，绿的树枝。

            两个伙伴一起上去。

            长风在品尝

            苦胆薄荷和玉香草的

            奇特味道。

            朋友，告诉我，她在哪儿？

            你那苦涩姑娘在哪儿？

            她多少次等候你！

            她多少次等候你，

            冰冷的脸，黑色的头发，

            在这绿色阳台上！

            那吉普赛姑娘

            在水池上摇曳。

            绿的肌肤，绿的头发，

            还有银子般清凉的眼睛。

            月光的冰柱

            在水上扶住她。

            夜亲密得

            像一个小广场。

            醉熏熏的宪警，

            正在敲门。

            绿啊，我多么爱你这绿色。

            绿的风，绿的树枝。

            船在海上，

            马在山中。

【注】加的斯“堡垒”如今虽是一座人口不足13万的滨海小城，其渊源却可追溯至3,500年前，堪称欧洲大地上最古老的文明活化石。它静卧于伊比利亚“西班牙—葡萄牙”半岛南端，如同通往地中海的天然门户，千百年来被无数文明垂青与争夺。1812年，西班牙第一部宪法在此签署，为这座古城添上了现代史上浓墨重彩的一笔。正因如此，加的斯荣膺西班牙乃至西欧最古老城市的盛誉，实至名归。

在希腊神话的叙事里，加的斯亦占有一席之地——相传大力神赫拉克勒斯“女王的荣耀”曾在此立下擎天之柱。而在真实的历史长河中，它曾是西班牙白银舰队的繁荣港口，满载新大陆财富的船只从这里驶入欧洲的版图。

穿行于老城区蜿蜒的街巷之间，不难找到曾经统治这片土地的诸般文明的踪迹：腓尼基人(公元前1100年)最早在此建立商埠；迦太基人(约公元前6世纪)随后接掌；罗马人(公元前206年)征服这里，使之成为帝国行省的要冲；而后，北非的摩尔“阿拉伯”人(711年—1262年)又在此留下近六个世纪的伊斯兰印记。每一块斑驳的石头、每一座古旧的教堂与堡垒，都在无声地诉说着这片土地上曾经的风云变幻与文明交融。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Seville Cathedral, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·大教堂)

2024: Alcazar Real in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·城堡皇宫)

2024: Plaza de Espana in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·西班牙广场)

2024: Seville, Andalusia's Pearl in Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·安达卢西亚明珠)

2022 GHCS Commencement, PA(2022届宾州光华中文学校毕业典礼)

2013届宾州光华毕业典礼拾遗(2013 GHCS Commencement·Potpourri)

2009: 繁星─朋友(Friends & Stars)

Andalusian Rooftops (安达卢西亚“漫游之地”屋脊)

Cathedral of the Holy Cross or Catedral de la Santa Cruz de Cádiz

(加的斯圣十字大教堂)

North Fa?ade in Baroque, Rococo, & Neoclassical (1722—1838), Cathedral of the Holy Cross

(圣十字大教堂·1722—1838年间建筑的巴洛克、洛可可和新古典主义风格的北立面)

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the Cathedral of the Americas

(圣十字大教堂·美洲大教堂)

Congress Palace against Levante Tower or Clock Tower

(国会宫与背后的通天塔即钟楼)

Church of Santiago Apostle (圣地亚哥“后继者”使徒教堂)

Church of St. Augustine w/ Mannerist Style Made in 1647

(圣奥古斯丁“崇敬”教堂·建于1647年，矫饰风格)

Plaza de Espa?a (西班牙广场)

Convent of Our Lady of the Rosary and Saint Dominic

(玫瑰圣母和君主圣徒修道院)

Aduana, the Historic Customs Bldg

(历史悠久的海关大楼)

Old Town Hall (旧市政厅)

Palacio de la Aduana or Provincial Council

(旧时海关宫·如今为省议会)

Casa de las Cuatro Torres @ Plaza Arguelles

(阿圭列斯“密林”广场·四塔之家)

Royal Tobacco Factory of Cádiz in Neo-Mudejar Style in 1829 & the Cádiz Congress Palace now

(1829年建造的加的斯皇家烟草厂·穆德哈尔“驯服”风格，现为加的斯国会宫)

Train Station (火车站)

Arco de la Rosa Built in the 13^th Century

(建于13世纪的玫瑰拱门)

Calle Beato Diego (赐福的迭戈“后继者”街 06-05-2024)

El Pópulo, a Historic Neighborhood w/ Sites from Roman & Medieval Times after a Weird Juxtaposition of the Old & New

(历史悠久、新旧共存的人民街·拥有罗马和中世纪时期的遗址)

Plaza de San Juan de Dios, the Commercial Ctr Since Way Back in the 16^th Century

(圣胡安·迪奥斯“神慈·上帝”广场·16世纪后的商业中心 06-05-2024)

Monument to the Cortes and the 1812 Constitution

(议会与1812年宪法纪念碑 06-05-2024)

Fa?ade of Monument to the Cortes and the 1812 Constitution

(议会与1812年宪法纪念碑·正面)

Back of Monument to the Cortes and the 1812 Constitution

(议会与1812年宪法纪念碑·背面)

Sculpture of Cigar Makers in Front of the Old Royal Tobacco Factory of Cádiz

(加的斯皇家烟草厂前雕塑《雪茄工人》)

Victoria Alada @ Plaza América (美洲广场·带翼的胜利女神石柱)

Columns of Hercules (赫拉克勒斯“女神的荣耀”石柱)

Trimillennial Obelisk 1954 (1954年的三千年方尖碑)

Triumph of the Virgin of the Rosary

(雕塑《玫瑰圣母的胜利》)

Plaza de Espa?a, an Ideal Place to Unwind & Bask in the Sun While Surrounded by Stunning 18^th-Century Bldgs & a Verdant Park

(西班牙广场·周围环绕着18世纪壮观建筑和翠绿公园，是放松身心、沐浴阳光的理想场所)

Monument to Emilio Castelar @ Plaza de la Candelaria

(蜡烛广场——西班牙第一任总统“奋斗·金丝桃”纪念碑)

Bust of Diego Fernando Montanes Alvarez

(加的斯整个历史上最大的捐助者半身像)

Statue of Francisco de Miranda (1750-1816), a Venezuelan revolutionary who helped to pave the way for independence @ Plaza de Espa?a

(西班牙广场《自由人·值得敬佩》雕像——为独立铺平道路的委内瑞拉革命者)

Statue of Saint Servando (雕像《圣塞尔万多“拯救”》)

Torches Of Liberty (雕塑《自由火炬》)

Freedom of Expression Monument (《言论自由纪念碑》)

To Moshe Yanai and the Jew who came out (His Liberation Journey from Cádiz in 1944)

(雕塑《致摩西·亚奈“拯救·神慈”和1944年从加的斯解放出来的犹太人》)

Tortuga or Turtle Fountain (海龟喷泉)

Centro Comercial Bahía Sur (南湾亚购物中心)

Constitution of 1812 Bridge (1812宪法桥)

José León de Carranza Bridge over Cadiz Bay

(加的斯湾·以加的斯市长命名的大桥)

Oceania Marina Berthed @ Port

(停泊在加的斯港的“海洋·滨海”号游轮)

Farmland around Cuadrejon Sevilla Gas Station

(塞维利亚的夸德拉多“正方形”加油站·附近的农场)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Spain(出游西班牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)