Seville, Andalusia's Pearl ESP(西班牙塞维利亚·安达卢西亚珍珠)

2024-06-05 Festival of Popular Delusions Day

【Absent Soul (Alma ausente)】

Frederico García Lorca (1898-1936)

    Neither the bull nor the fig tree knows you,

    Neither the horses nor the ants in your house,

    Neither the baby knows you nor the afternoon,

    Because you have died forever.

    Neither the back of the stone knows you

    Nor the black satin where you rest forever.

    Neither your silent memory knows you

    Because you have died forever.

    The autumn will come with shells,

    Grapes, fog and clustered mountains,

    But no one will want to look at your eyes

    Because you have died forever.

    Because you have died forever,

    Like all the dead of the Earth,

    Like all the dead who are forgotten

    In a pile of lifeless dogs.

    Nobody knows you. No. But I sing of you.

    I sing of your way of being and of your grace.

    The distinguished maturity of your knowledge.

    Your appetite for death and of the taste of your mouth,

    The sadness that your brave joy had.

    It will take a long time to be born again, 

    An Andalusian so clear, so rich in adventure.

    I sing of his elegance with my words that moan

    And I remember a sad breeze through the olive trees.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《缺席的灵魂》】

(西班牙)费德里科·加西亚·洛尔卡“和平统帅·矛·光明之神”

(1898生—1936卒)

【北岛译】

        牛和无花果树都不认识你，

        马和你家的蚂蚁不认识你，

        孩子和下午不认识你，

        因为你已长眠。

        石头的腰肢不认识你，

        你碎裂其中的黑缎子不认识你。

        你沉默的记忆不认识你，

        因为你已长眠。

        秋天会带来白色小蜗牛，

        朦胧的葡萄和聚集的山，

        但没有人会窥视你的眼睛

        因为你已长眠。

        因为你已长眠，

        象大地上所有死者，

        象所有死者被遗忘

        在成堆的死狗之间。

        没有人认识你。没有。而我为你歌唱。

        为了子孙我歌唱你的优雅风范。

        歌唱你所理解的炉火纯青。

        歌唱你对死的胃口和对其吻的品尝。

        歌唱你那勇猛的喜悦下的悲哀。

        这要好久，可能的话，才会诞生

        一个险境中如此真实丰富的安德露西亚人，

        我用呻吟之词歌唱他的优雅，

        我记住橄榄树林的一阵悲风。

【注】塞维利亚“山谷”是安达卢西亚“漫游地”的省府，西班牙第四大城市，也是南部文化与艺术的核心。老城内三座世界遗产静静矗立：阿尔卡萨尔“城堡”皇宫(Real Alcázar)、塞维利亚大教堂与西印度群岛档案馆；大谷河畔的黄金塔，仍映照着黄金舰队的余晖。圣十字区街巷狭窄弯曲，庭院与古建筑交错；河对岸的特里亚纳“纯净”区(Barrio de Triana)，是弗拉门戈“流浪者”的摇篮，吉他与歌声至今在酒巷深处回荡。13世纪基督徒终结了摩尔“北非穆斯林”人500多年的统治，大教堂的吉拉尔达“威武”塔(Giralda)——原为清真寺宣礼塔——在改造后兼容了伊斯兰纹饰与天主教穆德哈尔“驯服”(Mudejar)遗风，成为两种文明交叠的沉默见证。

塞维利亚素有“西班牙煎锅”之称，六月初气温已攀升至35^oC/95^oF。当地人却习以为常，长裤长衣，手持折叠扇，阳光再烈，步伐依旧从容。

我坐在大教堂阴影下的石阶上，看着阳光将吉拉尔达塔的几何纹路切割成明暗相间的碎片。街角的老人正缓缓展开一把扇子，那动作不急不躁，仿佛在与高温进行一场默契的谈判。那一刻我忽然觉得，塞维利亚教会我的，不是如何躲避炎热，而是如何在灼热中仍然保持自己的节奏——像那些被阳光反复烘烤却依然挺立的石墙，在炽烈的温度里，学会用沉默来回应。而这，也许是这座城池给予每一位到访者最深的馈赠。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Cadiz, the Oldest City in Spain(西班牙最古老的城市—加的斯城)

2024: 2024: Seville Cathedral, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·城大教堂)

2024: Alcazar Real in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·城堡皇宫)

2024: Plaza de Espana in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚·西班牙广场)

2022 GHCS Commencement, PA(2022届宾州光华中文学校毕业典礼)

2013届宾州光华毕业典礼拾遗(2013 GHCS Commencement·Potpourri)

2009: 繁星─朋友(Friends & Stars)

Real Alcázar de Sevilla, Fa?ade of King Pedro I & Patio de la Montería & the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(塞维利亚皇家城堡——佩德罗“磐石”国王一世王宫正面观和狩猎庭院，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, Christendom's Largest Gothic Church w/ a Marvelous Edifice Boasting Christopher Columbus' Sepulcher & the Giralda, an Iconic Arab Minaret as well as the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(圣母大教堂——基督教世界最大的哥特式教堂，拥有克里斯托弗·哥伦布“基督徒·鸽子”墓的宏伟建筑和阿拉伯标志性威武尖塔，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

General Archive of the Indies in the 16^th-Century Renaissance Style @ the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(西印度档案总馆·16世纪文艺复兴风格，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

Plaza de Espa?a in Regionalism Architecture Mixing Elements of the Baroque Revival, Renaissance Revival, & Moorish Revival (Neo-Mudéjar) Styles of Spanish Architecture

(西班牙广场·地域主义建筑融合了巴洛克复兴、文艺复兴和摩尔复兴/穆德哈尔的风格元素 06-05-2024)

Calle de los Alemanes (阿尔埃马内斯“德国佬”街)

Monument of the Immaculate Conception (圣母无染原罪纪念碑)

Monument to Simon Bolivar in Front of Queen's Sewing Box

(“聆听·强大”纪念碑与后面的女王缝纫箱)

Costurero de la Reina or Queen's Sewing Box in the 19^th-Century Neomudéjar Style 

(19世纪新穆德哈尔风格的女王缝纫盒)

El Cid, Warlord of the Medieval Spanish Kingdom of Castile & Most Celebrated Hero of Spain Exemplified by his Leading of the Christian Armies During the Reconquista

(塑像《熙德“领主”》——中世纪西班牙城堡王国的军阀，也是西班牙最著名的英雄，因其在收复失地运动期间领导基督教军队而闻名)

Edificio Cristina in a Fusion Between Neocolonial Architecture and Art Deco

(克里斯蒂娜“基督徒”大厦·融合了新殖民主义建筑设计和装饰艺术风格)

El Arenal, a Low-Lying, Sandy Area & Previously the Main Home of the Sevillan Underworld, & the Site of the Notorious Brothel

(阿雷纳尔“沙地”·低洼区域，曾是塞维利亚黑社会总部和臭名昭著的妓院所在地)

Apartamentos Puerta de la Maestranza in a Yellow & White Bldg w/ Arched Windows

(斗牛场之门公寓·带有黄白色拱形窗户的大楼)

Guadalquivir River, the Only Navigable River in Spain

(瓜达尔基维尔“大河”·西班牙唯一可通航的河流)

Torre del Oro, the Fortress & Prison During the Middle Ages Dodecagonally in the 12^th Century

(十二角形的黄金塔·中世纪的堡垒和监狱)

Monument to Juan Sebastian Elcano, Departure from Seville in 1519 around the World for the 1^st Time aboard the Victoria on the Magellan Expedition to the Spice Islands

(胡安·塞巴斯蒂安·埃尔卡诺“神慈·敬佩·出海”纪念碑——1519年首次从塞维利亚出发，乘坐维多利亚“胜利女王”号大帆船前往香料群岛)

Monument to Christopher Columbus @ Gardens of Murillo

(墙园——克里斯托弗·哥伦布纪念碑)

Monument to Christopher Columbus w/ a Pillar Representing a Spanish Galleon, Symbolic of How the Spaniards Conquer, Colonize, & Trade w/ the Rest of Its Empire

(克里斯托弗·哥伦布纪念碑——拥有代表西班牙大帆船的柱子，象征着西班牙人如何征服、殖民和与帝国其他地区的贸易)

Puerta de la Alcoba @ Gardens of Murillo

(穆里略“小墙”花园·阿尔科巴“圆顶”门)

 Double Royal Wooden Doors Surrounded by Tiles @ Gardens of Murillo

(穆里略花园·双开皇家木门，四周瓷砖环绕)

Callejón del Agua or Water Alley from the 12^th Century @ Plaza de Alfaro, Barrio de Santa Cruz

(十字架区灯塔广场上12世纪的水巷)

Fa?ade of Traditional Spanish House @ Plaza de Alfaro

(灯塔广场·传统西班牙民居正面观)

Sign of Plaza Santa Cruz (十字架广场·路牌)

Andalusia House @ Calle Rodrigo Caro

(罗德里戈·卡罗“著名统治者·慈爱”街——安达卢西亚风格的民居)

Gallivanting around Houses in Andalusian Yellow 

(闲步在安达卢西亚的黄色房屋周围)

Cross of the Serpent in the Former Jewish Quarter of the Medieval City

(中世纪城老犹太区的蛇十字架)

Ornate Iron Cross & Lanterns (华丽的铸铁十字架和灯笼)

Rectangular Tower (矩形塔)

Fountain of the Jewish Quarter (犹太区喷泉)

Plaza de la Alianza, Barrio Santa Cruz, or Parish of the Holy Cross in the Oldest Part of the City, Being Within the City Walls Built by the Romans in the 1^st Century 

(圣十字区即城市最古老部分的圣十字教区联盟广场·位于公元1世纪罗马人修建的城墙内)

Palacio de San Telmo Built on Land Owned by the Tribunal of the Holy Office or the Infamous Spanish Inquisitors, in the Spanish Baroque Style in 1754

(圣特尔莫“神圣的守护者”宫·建于1754年，为西班牙巴洛克式建筑，位于宗教裁判所即臭名昭著的西班牙宗教裁判所拥有的地盘上)

Pantheon of Illustrious Sailors, a Mausoleum & Memorial to All the Mariners of the Spanish Navy in the 18^th-Century Romanesque

(杰出海员万神殿·18世纪古罗马风格的西班牙海军官兵陵和纪念碑)

Neighborhood around Plaza de Espa?a

(西班牙广场居民区)

Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla w/ Principal Fa?ade in Baroque Style of the 18^th-Century

(塞维利亚皇家骑兵军械库斗牛场·主立面为18世纪巴洛克风格)

Bronze Statue of Curro Romero in the Bullring of the Real Maestranza

(塞维利亚皇家骑兵军械库斗牛场·西班牙斗牛士铜像《自由人·朝圣》)

Statue Equestrian of Maria de las Mercedes, Princess of Asturias

(阿斯图里亚斯“闪耀的光芒”玛丽亚·梅赛德斯“怜爱·慈悲圣母”公主骑马雕像)

Plaza Virgen de los Reyes or the Virgin of the Kings Square

(国王圣母广场)

Palacio Arzobispal or Archbishop's Palace, the 18th-Century Seville Baroque @ Plaza Virgen de los Reyes

(三王圣母广场·18世纪塞维利亚巴洛克式大主教宫)

Convent of the Incarnation @ Plaza Virgen de los Reyes

(国王圣母广场·圣母修道院)

Plaza del Cabildo (市政厅广场)

Outdoor of Naturalmente (天然餐厅·户外)

Indoor of Naturalmente (天然餐厅·室内)

Casa Robles w/ a Lunch of Tapas, Potato Salads, Fish Nuggets, Spanish Garlic Noodles, & Andalusian Desserts

(橡树之家·午餐包括西班牙小吃：土豆沙拉、鱼块、西班牙蒜蓉面条和安达卢西亚甜点 06-05-2024)

Abanicos or Spanish Folding Hand Fans (西班牙折叠手扇)

Paseo de las Delicias, or Walk of Delights, the Main Entry Way from Cadiz into the City of Seville

(欢乐大道·从要塞城进入塞维利亚的门户)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Spain(出游西班牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)